The Coast of Death

I have just returned from Galicia, from La Costa da Morte (Coast of Death). The more I visit this area, the more I like it - it is a different world! All villages splashed along the coast, with their stone horreos (old small buildings used for storage), the blue Atlantic ocean, so wild that it is terrifying, its people…. So nice! June is a lovely time of the year to visit it as being so west the evenings are endless - at 10 pm I was still wearing my Ray Bans !!

One of the villages I never miss (and not because the place is beautiful, on the opposite!, with that coal factory that you see as soon as you enter… aghh!), but because of a couple of bars/ restaurants is Cee, about 15km from Finisterre, and one restaurant/bar in particular, Bodegon O Montañes. I discovered it a few years ago, I keep coming every year and always recommend it – so far it hasn’t let us down at all. It is one of those places with nothing special but where everything is. They always have fresh seafood, even percebes (barnacles), at laughing prices; I had the best Spanish omelet I´ve had for years. Another good thing is that they have ½ portions, a must in Galicia, where the plates are huge, and not something that many restaurants offer. Razor clams, baby squid, octopus and so on. The meat dishes are delicious too with heaps of homemade chips. You can have the local wine, Ribeiro, straight from the barrel, poured into a jug. This wine is drunk from a small porcelain bowl, rather than a glass.

When we went discovered this place the menu was written in a squared paper, like the one you used when you learnt how to write in the school, with the titles in red and underlined and the actual dishes in blue, all hand written… It was lovely and funny.

But now they have a proper printed menu. It is one of those places where there are always local guys at the bar, standing up, chatting, sorting out the world. When we go in, they all look and notice that we are not locals, but Alvaro, the owner and Silvia, his wife, come and welcome us with a big smile, just like if we were. This is what people from Galicia are like, always welcoming you nicely!

Very near Cee, in one of its beaches, Gures, there was a whale factory. Originally Norwegian, and then Japanese owned. It closed in the 70´s when, thank god, whale hunting was forbidden. Now only the big sheds in ruins remain….

August 2015

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